Kiyomizudera Temple, boasting a history of approximately 1200 years and recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a venerable temple in Kyoto with a rich heritage.
The temple features national treasures such as the Kiyomizu Stage extending out from the cliff, a three-story pagoda, and other important cultural properties. In addition to these, there are power spots like the Otowa Waterfall, believed to grant wishes like success in love, and the famous Zuigudo Hall known for its womb pilgrimage, attracting many tourists from both domestic and international locations and creating a lively atmosphere.
While many visitors are captivated by the grand scale of Kiyomizu Stage, there are actually numerous mysterious elements dating back to the Heian period that can be discovered if you know where to look. Let’s explore the enigmatic points of Kiyomizudera Temple that you might not be aware of.
The Mystery of Kiyomizudera Temple① Why are only the Agyo Guardian Lions placed in front of the Niomon Gate?
Generally, komainu, or guardian lion-dogs, come in pairs: one with an open mouth, known as ‘Agyo,’ and the other with a closed mouth, known as ‘Ungyo.’
Agyo symbolizes the beginning of the universe and all things, while Ungyo represents the end of them. However, the komainu in front of the Niomon Gate at Kiyomizudera Temple both have their mouths wide open, resembling Agyo. Why is that?
The familiar komainu for us often appears more like a lion with an impressive mane than a dog, but technically, komainu is considered a mythical creature, a divine beast. The origin of komainu is traced back to lion sculptures brought from China about 1400 years ago.
Considering that Asuka period was about 1400 years ago, during the time when Kiyomizudera Temple was founded, it should have both Agyo and Ungyo komainu. So why are there only ‘Agyo’ komainu? There are two theories that attempt to explain this mystery.
One theory suggests that it could be a deliberate choice made for symbolic or spiritual reasons, while another theory proposes that the ‘Ungyo’ komainu may have been added later and then lost or removed over time, leaving only the ‘Agyo’ figures. The true answer to this intriguing puzzle remains uncertain.
The Theory of Agyo-Only Komainu①: Agyo and Ungyo Distinction was not yet common in the 8th to 9th centuries
It is believed that the komainu at Kiyomizudera Temple was crafted around the 8th to 9th centuries. During this period, there is a theory suggesting that the distinction between Agyo and Ungyo in komainu was not yet clearly established.
The Theory of Agyo-Only Komainu②: It was a decision made by the founder, Gyoki
There are various theories regarding the founder of Kiyomizudera Temple. Records associated with Kiyomizudera Temple designate a person named Gyoki as the founder, but these records were compiled between the 8th and 12th centuries and were not written during Gyoki’s lifetime. Another theory suggests Gyoki’s disciple, Enchin, as the founder.
The emphasis on the founder is crucial because, if Gyoki was indeed the founder, the theory gains strength that the decision to have Agyo-only komainu was a choice made by the founder.
The Agyo-only komainu is found in the following temples in the Kansai region:
・Kiyomizudera Temple (Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto)
・Todaiji Temple Nandaimon Gate (Nara)
・Horyuji Temple (Ikaruga-cho, Nara)
・Kasuga-taisha Shrine (Nara)
・Fushimi-inari-taisha Shrine (Fushimi-ku, Kyoto)
・Yasaka Shrine (Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto)
Interestingly, all these temples are said to have been founded by Gyoki.
The placement of Agyo-only komainu by Gyoki, the presumed founder, might symbolize the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism (the belief that gods and Buddhas are the same). This suggests that the Agyo-only komainu could have been a representation of the founder’s intentions and the way komainu were crafted during the temple’s establishment.
With the common factor of Gyoki, it adds credibility to these theories, but as of now, none of these explanations have reached a definitive conclusion.
The Mystery of Kiyomizudera Temple② The Hexagonal Pillar Bell Tower
At the top of the slope leading to Kiyomizudera Temple, there is a large red gate called Niomon Gate at the entrance. To the left after passing through this gate, there is a structure called the Bell Tower, where a bell is hung. In Japan, bell towers are typically supported by four cylindrical pillars. However, the bell tower at Kiyomizudera Temple has six pillars, with four at the corners and an additional two between them.
This unique design is attributed to the bell at Kiyomizudera Temple being larger and heavier than traditional bells, requiring additional pillars for support.
Interestingly, these pillars, known as ‘Shiho Korobi,’ are built with a slight inward slope towards the upper part.
‘Shihoko Korobi’ is a construction method commonly used in temple bell towers. By inclining the pillars around the center, it provides stability to the entire structure when supporting the heavy temple bell. This architectural technique, born from Japanese ingenuity, can still be observed in various structures like chairs and step stools today.
The Mystery of Kiyomizudera Temple③ The Spirit Bird-Guarded Hand-washing Basin ‘Chozubachi’
Within the grounds of Kiyomizudera Temple, there is a place where a bridge is built despite the absence of a river or pond. This bridge is called ‘Todoroki Bridge,’ and it is said to indicate traces of a stream called ‘Todoroki River’ that used to flow beneath it in ancient times. However, there are no visible signs of a river at present.
The Todoroki Bridge, rather than serving as a conventional bridge, is believed to function as a boundary before entering the sacred space of the main hall.
To the left of the Todoroki Bridge is the ‘Fukurou no Chozubachi,’ a hand-washing basin named after the owl (‘fukurou’ in Japanese). Interestingly, despite the name, the basin features carvings of dragons, not owls.
Where exactly is the owl? In fact, beneath the base of the hand-washing basin, there is a sculpture of Kannon Bosatsu, and on either side, owls are carved. In the 8th to 12th centuries, owls were considered ‘auspicious birds bringing good fortune,’ and in the early 14th to late 15th centuries, there was a popular belief that owls could alleviate human troubles.With a central sculpture of Bodhisattva and owls carved on both sides, it appears as if the owls are guarding the central Bodhisattva.
Since owls are associated with protecting Buddhism and Kiyomizudera Temple, their presence in this context is noteworthy. The carvings may appear faded due to deterioration, but if observed closely, they can still be discerned. Although somewhat challenging to spot, I encourage you to look for them when you visit.
