“Tempura Kyoboshi,” located in Gion, the representative bustling district of Kyoto spread in front of Yasaka Shrine’s gate, is the only tempura restaurant in Kyoto featured in the Michelin Guide for 14 consecutive years. Founded in Kyoto in 1947, and under the leadership of the third-generation owner, Mr. Toshinori Sakakibara, since relocating to Gion in 1991, where many high-end and famous establishments are situated, the restaurant continues to captivate customers with its unchanged delicately battered tempura.
At “Kyoboshi,” a distinctive feature is offering tempura with an extremely thin batter in the omakase course. The emphasis on thin batter is to enhance the flavor of fresh ingredients to the fullest extent. This commitment also extends to not using tempura dipping sauce at “Kyoboshi.” While it’s common to dip tempura in tempura sauce, the owner explains, “For tempura that highlights the flavor of the ingredients like Kyoboshi’s, I believe our unique blend of salt and lemon juice pairs best, rather than traditional tempura sauce, which complements thicker batters.” Additionally, grated daikon radish, which helps to harmonize these flavors, is also provided, elevating the meticulously crafted and unparalleled tempura to its highest level.
We also pay particular attention to the oil we use. Employing a unique blend of oil passed down through generations, wrapped in a veil of secrecy, ensures that even in courses solely featuring tempura, diners won’t experience any heaviness in their stomachs. The tempura pots, which have been in use for decades, remain impeccably clean without any signs of deterioration, demonstrating meticulous attention not only to the cuisine but also to the tools. Without such dedication, it would be impossible to maintain the prestigious Michelin star for 14 years amidst the intense competition and turnover.
The ingredients, referred to as the ‘essence’ of tempura, consist of seasonal seafood and vegetables personally sourced by the head chef from locations such as Chuo Market, Nishiki Market, and Ohara Morning Market. It’s a particular emphasis of the chef not to fry meats; instead, they alternate between frying seafood and vegetables, occasionally weaving in shrimp. Shrimp, known for its sophisticated taste profile among tempura ingredients, are meticulously prepared with varying degrees of doneness between the first and second pieces, introducing subtle changes within the approximately 18-course menu (excluding tempura tea and dessert). This adjustment of cooking times by skilled artisans enhances the flavors of the ingredients and allows diners to experience a progression of flavors throughout the course. This is the essence of tempura at ”Kyoboshi”.
The innovative tempura is also a must-see
The tempura at ”Kyoboshi” impresses not only in taste but also in presentation, showcasing the craftsmanship and the keen sense of the proprietor. The experiences during the apprenticeship period, leading up to the sudden inheritance of ‘Kyoboshi’ after the illness of the second-generation father, may have served as the unique inspiration for creating exceptional tempura. Examples such as carrots sliced into a spiral using a ‘tazuna-nuki’ technique, ayu (sweetfish) braided into a plaited pattern, and green beans skewered and fried in a radial arrangement reflect the proprietor’s desire to offer visually distinctive tempura creations.
The English-speaking customer service is also a topic of conversation
The third-generation owner, Mr. Toshinori Sakakibara, provides customer service in English for visitors from overseas. Given the popularity of the restaurant in Kyoto, which attracts many tourists from abroad, it has become essential to accommodate foreign guests. Mr. Sakakibara mentioned, ‘It started with memorizing the names of ingredients when it became necessary,’ and now he warmly welcomes many foreign customers. Since it’s a set-course menu, guests can rest assured that they can leave everything to the owner except for ordering beverages.
Served with Japanese sake or wine
At Kyoboshi, the tempura pairs well with any type of alcohol, but owner Mr. Sakakibara recommends Japanese sake or wine. He particularly favors offerings such as Hayaseura from Fukui Prefecture or the seasonal limited edition Midorikawa from Niigata Prefecture. Interestingly, there seems to be no preference difference between customers from Japan and overseas at Kyoboshi, with Japanese sake being equally enjoyed by visitors from abroad. Following Japanese sake, white wine, known to complement fried foods, is also popular, and Kyoboshi offers a selection of bottles. Additionally, Kyoboshi provides a rare and exquisite tea called ‘Royal Blue Tea,’ made from carefully selected hand-picked tea leaves, which is highly praised by international customers.
Accommodation limited to three groups per day
In the interior of the restaurant, which has a counter with nine seats, there is an extra seat left empty between each group to ensure that customers can relax and enjoy their time. Limiting reservations to three groups per day is also a reflection of the proprietor’s consideration for providing the best possible cuisine and hospitality to each guest. Seated at the captivating white wooden counter inside the restaurant, customers can witness tempura being fried right in front of them, promising a luxurious and indulgent experience.
Author’s Note
Here, what should be noted is to avoid damaging the counter. Those accustomed to high-end establishments often discreetly remove watches that may pose a risk of scratching the counter. While at Kyoboshi, there is no explicit request to ‘please remove your watch,’ it’s understood that proper etiquette is expected from guests, particularly in top-tier establishments. While refraining from speaking loudly and refraining from filming videos are basic manners, one’s familiarity with fine dining and high-end establishments can also be gauged through their demeanor. In upscale establishments, attention is paid not only to tableware like plates but also to the interior decor, including tables and chairs, many of which are irreplaceable or difficult to repair. It’s through maintaining these elements that guests can enjoy the finest cuisine and service, ensuring a luxurious experience for both you and the next guest. Therefore, it’s essential to be considerate and avoid damaging the cherished belongings of the establishment.
The proprietor’s words
When asked about the reasons behind the high praise for the cuisine and service from both domestic and international customers on various restaurant review and feedback platforms, the proprietor of ‘Kyoboshi’ answers with a smile, ‘We simply make sure to do the ordinary things as they should be done.’ From these succinct and humble words of the proprietor, who has maintained the Michelin star alongside the restaurant’s name, I felt the essence of ‘Kyoboshi’ that has led to its continued success. Across three generations dedicated solely to the art of tempura, Mr. Toshinori Sakakibara, the third-generation owner of ‘Kyoboshi,’ understands the importance and challenges of maintaining rather than expanding the scale of the business. He will continue to elevate the reputation of ‘Kyoboshi’ while welcoming customers from all over the world through the art of tempura.
menu
■Foods
Course (One Type Only) / Seasonal seafood and vegetables, approximately 18 varieties, Tempura tea, Dessert.
■Drinks
Draft beer, Japanese sake (4 brands), Shochu (3 wheat brands / 5 potato brands), Wine (Red / White – Glass / Bottle), Champagne (Full / Half Bottle), Highball, Royal Blue Tea, Non-alcoholic beer, Perrier, Ginger ale, Cola.
【Estimated Budget】
¥15,000 to ¥20,000
【Payment Methods】
Cards accepted: VISA, MasterCard, JCB, American Express, Diners Club
【Reservation Method】
Reservation only
Reservations can be made by phone or through reservation websites, but for customers from overseas, reservations are accepted only through three designated reservation sites.
■TABLE ALL
■JPNEAZY
■MY CONCIERGE
If visiting through a reservation site, the course fee is prepaid, so on the day of your visit, you only need to pay for drinks.
【Cancellation Policy】
Once your reservation is confirmed, we will secure your seat. Please note that cancellation fees are as follows:
Cancellation on the previous day: 50%
Cancellation on the day of the reservation: 100%
【Business Hours】
Closed: Sundays / New Year’s holidays
Opening hours: 18:00 to 22:00 (Last admission: 20:00)
Phone: 075-551-2303
