Japanese sake has been gaining popularity worldwide, and in recent years, its export volume has been increasing annually. The total export value in 2022 reached approximately 125 billion yen, marking a record high.
The background of this global boom can be attributed to several reasons.
One significant factor is the diverse flavor profile of Japanese sake. From light and dry to rich and sweet, there exists a wide variety of sake types. Moreover, in recent years, new types of sake such as sparkling sake and low-alcohol sake have also emerged.
The increasing interest in Japanese culture worldwide also serves as a background. Among inbound tourists, there is a growing number of individuals whose purpose includes seeking out Japanese sake as part of their exploration.
In the midst of the increasing popularity of Japanese sake, one prominent sake-producing region known is the group of sake breweries called “Nada-Gogo” located in the Kansai region. Nada-Gogo encompasses five brewing districts situated in Kobe City (Nada Ward, Higashi Nada Ward), Ashiya City, and Nishinomiya City, namely Nishi-go, Mikage-go, Uozaki-go, Nishinomiya-go, and Imazu-go. It holds the top position in sake production in Japan, accounting for approximately 25% of the domestic production. As of 2023, there are about 150 sake breweries in this region, and Nada-Gogo’s sake is highly praised both domestically and internationally for its exceptional quality and distinctive flavor.
The background of the birth of Nada-Gogo lies in its climatic suitability for “kandukuri” (a method of brewing sake during winter) due to its cold climate. Additionally, the region benefits from abundant underground water from the Rokko mountain range, enabling the cultivation of high-quality sake rice. It is said that the traditions and techniques of sake brewing, passed down since the Edo period, have been transmitted to Nada-Gogo.
Mystery of the Nada-Gogo①：Where is the birthplace of Nada-Gogo?
The birthplace of Nada-Gogo within the region has various theories. The most plausible one is the Nishinomiya-go theory. Nishinomiya-go is located at the foothills of the Rokko mountains, blessed with abundant water and rice. Due to its historical significance as a crucial transportation hub, it is believed that sake brewing flourished in the area. The origins of sake brewing in Nishinomiya-go can be traced back to the Muromachi period.
In 1498, Tazaemon Yamamura moved to Nishinomiya and began sake brewing, marking the beginning of Nada-Gogo’s sake production.
There is also a strong theory related to Itami. The birthplace of Nada-Gogo is believed to be Itami-go in Itami City, Hyogo Prefecture. Itami-go, situated at the foothills of the Rokko mountains, shares a similar abundance of water and rice. Additionally, due to its historical significance as a thriving commercial center, it is thought that sake brewing became prosperous. However, there is something noteworthy about this theory.
Mystery of the Nada-Gogo②：Is Nara the birthplace of Nada-Gogo?
The beginning of sake brewing in Itami-go dates back to the Nara period, predating Nishinomiya-go. There are records of sake brewing in Itami-go from the Nara period, indicating that residents of Itami-go received the knowledge of sake brewing techniques from the capital in Nara during the era of the Yamato court. This suggests that sake was produced in Nara before the inception of Nada-Gogo.
Is there a place in Nara that supports this claim?
Actually, there is a temple considered the birthplace of refined sake in Nara.It is the Shōryaku-ji temple in Nara City.
Shōryaku-ji temple was established in 992 under the imperial order of Emperor Ichijō, with the monk Kenshun serving as the founder. The temple’s association with the origin of refined sake is evident from several ancient documents.
For instance, in the sake brewing records of the Muromachi period titled “Goshu no Nikki” (御酒之日記), there is a section called “Bodai Izumi,” detailing the method of producing refined sake at Bodaiyama Temple (Shōryaku-ji temple). Additionally, the “Tamon-in Nikki,” a diary passed down by monks from Kōfuku-ji temple since the late Muromachi period, also references the sake brewing activities at Shōryaku-ji temple. The production method known as “Morohaku-dukuri,” developed at Shōryaku-ji temple, is considered the prototype of Japanese refined sake.
Before the production of refined sake at Shōryaku-ji temple, sake was traditionally cloudy. The manufacturing methods for refined sake and cloudy sake differ, with refined sake being characterized by ①sterilization through lactic acid bacteria, ②the separation of the sake mash (containing a large amount of yeast) and the sake, and the use of multiple brewing stages (known as “danjikomi”). Additionally, at Shōryaku-ji temple, a process called “Morohaku-dukuri” was implemented, involving the use of polished rice in both the koji rice and steamed rice for the mash.
In this way, Shōryaku-ji temple produced large quantities of safe and sterilized sake annually, maintaining homogeneity through the storage of their original sake mash called “Bodai Moto.” This can be considered a revolutionary moment in the sake brewing industry, representing the birth of Japanese sake-making innovation.
The Revival of the Phantom Sake in Modern Times
The Shōryaku-ji temple continued producing refined sake from the mid-15th century during the Muromachi period for approximately 200 years. However, the tradition of sake brewing at Shōryaku-ji temple ceased, and the center of sake production shifted to the Nada-Gogo region, where improvements were made to the sake production process.
In 1996, a project titled the “Nara Prefecture Bodai Moto Sake Brewing Research Association” was launched to revive the refined sake that had been crafted at Shōryaku-ji temple. Successful collection of three essential microorganisms for sake brewing (lactic acid bacteria, yeast, and koji mold) from the mountain of Shōryaku-ji temple was achieved. In 1998, they successfully revived the “Bodai Moto” brewing method, bringing back the taste rooted in the origins of Nada-Gogo. Simultaneously, certain conditions were established for the “Bodai Moto” brewing method, including using sake mash produced at Shōryaku-ji temple, employing yeast from Shōryaku-ji temple, and using rice and pure water from the temple’s estate.
Currently, sake brewed using the Shōryaku-ji temple’s sake mash “Bodai Moto” is produced by eight breweries in Nara Prefecture. “Bodai Moto” sake is characterized by a rich and full-bodied flavor, reminiscent of white wine. Nara Prefecture is a must-visit destination for those embarking on a journey to explore the world of Japanese sake.
