Japanese people invariably mention “Oden” when it comes to representative winter dishes in Japan. Oden is a heartwarming winter dish featuring a variety of ingredients such as daikon radish, konjac, fish cakes, boiled eggs, hampen (fish cake), tsukune (chicken meatballs), beef tendons, chicken, quail eggs, and satsuma-age (deep-fried fish cake), all simmered in a savory broth. However, Oden is accompanied by various mysteries and questions.
The formal name of Oden, to begin with, what does it mean?
While it is commonly referred to as “Oden,” in Kansai, it is often called “Kanto-ni.” Does using the term “Kanto-ni” imply that Oden originated in the Kanto region, meaning it is a dish that originated in Edo (old Tokyo)? Furthermore, is “Kanto-ni” the official name for Oden?
Is “Kanto-ni” the initial name for Oden, or is there no common ground in the names? Moreover, Oden ingredients include daikon radish, konjac, fish cakes, boiled eggs, hampen (fish cake), tsukune (chicken meatballs), beef tendons, chicken, quail eggs, satsuma-age (deep-fried fish cake), and various others.
Did Oden originally emerge and evolve as a simmered dish that allows for the enjoyment of a variety of ingredients? Additionally, when it comes to the seasoning of Oden broth with soy sauce or miso, did Oden initially come into existence and develop as a dish centered around broth?
As one begins to contemplate these questions, numerous mysteries and inquiries arise. Delving into the history and culture of Oden might unveil the mysteries behind this seemingly ordinary dish, revealing new facets of Japanese cuisine.
Mystery of Oden①：What is the origin and birthplace of the name?
When researching the roots of Oden, it is said to trace back to “Tofu Dango,” where tofu is skewered and grilled. Tofu Dango involves cutting tofu into a shape resembling a wooden clapper used in the traditional rice-planting dance called “Dengaku Mai.” The dish got its name because the shape of the tofu skewers resembled the ritualistic dance performed to pray for a bountiful harvest during the rice-planting season.
“Dengaku” has been present since the Heian period, and around 450 years ago, during the Muromachi period, it became widely popular among the common people in Kyoto. As time passed into the Edo period, various ingredients such as konjac and daikon were added to Dengaku, giving rise to the prototype of the current “Oden.”
The use of bamboo skewers in Oden is believed to have originated from Dengaku. Bamboo skewers, being heat-resistant and capable of securely holding ingredients, were well-suited for simmered dishes. Additionally, the disposable nature of bamboo skewers provided a hygienic advantage. Tofu Dengaku became widely popular among the common people in Edo during the Edo period, available at food stalls and izakayas. By this time, historical records indicate that the ingredients for Tofu Dengaku had expanded to include various items such as daikon, konjac, and chikuwa. In essence, Oden originally started as a dish where tofu and vegetables skewered on bamboo sticks were grilled, and even as it evolved into a simmered dish, the connection to Dengaku, where bamboo skewers played a crucial role, remained.
Mystery of Oden②：Which did come first in terms origin, Oden or Kanto-ni?
When is the birth of current style Oden simmered in a hot pot?
Specifically, within the literature of the Edo period, there are records found in the highly valuable culinary document ‘Manpō Ryōri Hiden,’ published in 1674 (Enpō 2), which is considered a significant Edo-era cookbook.
In this text, a dish called ‘Dengaku-ni’ is introduced. This dish involves ingredients such as daikon radish, konjac, and chikuwa that are first grilled and then simmered in a mixture of soy sauce and miso.
Furthermore, in the specialized tofu cuisine book ‘Tofu Hyakuchin,’ highly regarded as a source on Edo-period tofu dishes, published in 1782 (Tenmei 2), a dish known as ‘Nikomi Dengaku’ is presented. This dish includes skewered tofu, konjac, and chikuwa that are grilled and subsequently simmered in a blend of soy sauce and miso.
In the later years of the Edo period, Nikomi Dengaku underwent further evolution, giving rise to ‘Nikomi Oden,’ a dish where soy sauce, miso, and other seasonings were added to enhance the simmering process. This marked the birth of simmered oden. Simmered oden became a staple dish among the common people, not only enjoyed at street stalls and izakayas but also prepared in households. It solidified its status as a popular and enduring comfort food.
The formal name for oden is commonly referred to as ‘oden.’ However, in the Kansai region, it is often called ‘Kanto-ni.’ This nomenclature is thought to stem from the fact that simmered oden originated in the Kanto region, and as the dish spread from Kanto to Kansai, it became known by that name in the western part of Japan.
In this way, the roots of oden trace back to the Muromachi period when tofu dengaku (simmered tofu) was born in Kyoto. During the Edo period, dengaku found its way into a pot, giving birth to Kanto-ni. This culinary tradition then made its way to Osaka, where it evolved into oden, a simmered dish based on dashi (broth). It is suggested that the current style of oden, rooted in Osaka’s broth culture during the late Edo period, was further established.
Mystery of Oden③：One manga that played a pivotal role in becoming a beloved representation of home-cooked flavors is?
From the early Showa era to the late 1940s, oden was primarily consumed at stalls, specialty oden shops, and candy stores, with limited presence in household dining. The significant turning point that propelled oden into a taste embraced by households nationwide was the portrayal of “Chibita’s Oden” in the popular 1962 manga “Osomatsu-kun,” created by Fujio Akatsuka. This depiction featured triangular, circular, and square ingredients skewered on a stick alongside the character Chibita.
With the tremendous success of “Osomatsu-kun” and the introduction of “Chibita’s Oden,” oden swiftly became popular in households. In the post-war era, alongside the recovering economy, processed oden products were sold in markets as ready-made side dishes, contributing to an era where they would “sell as soon as they were made.”
Following this trend, convenience was further enhanced with the release of products like “soup bases,” making oden a commonplace dish in various household scenarios. Around 1965 (Showa 40), the results of a survey on hot pot dishes conducted in the Sennri New Town area in Osaka revealed that oden ranked third after shabu-shabu and udon suki. It is evident that oden, propelled by “Osomatsu-kun,” not only spread widely but also solidified its status as a national dish in the present day.
