When it comes to Osaka, many Japanese people associate it with the collective term “konamon,” including dishes like takoyaki, okonomiyaki, and kushikatsu. “Konamon” refers to dishes made with wheat flour and encompasses various types of cuisine, such as udon, soba, ramen, and more. Furthermore, Osaka is known as the “City of Gourmet Delights,” and throughout its long history, especially during the Edo period from 1603 to 1868, it was referred to as the “Kitchen of the Nation,” highlighting its rich culinary culture.
The Kansai region has long been a crucial hub for transportation, connecting the Sea of Japan side and the Seto Inland Sea side, thriving as a convenient location for the transport and distribution of goods. Osaka, acclaimed as the “Kitchen of the Nation,” played a central role in the Kansai region during the Edo period, where ingredients gathered from various parts of the country, making it a flourishing hub for distribution.
It is through the historical development of Osaka’s culinary culture “Konamon” that the current flour-based cuisine culture of Osaka emerged. However, the history, culture, and characteristics of flour-based cuisine “Konamon” in Osaka conceal several mysteries.
The Mystery of Osaka’s Flour-Based Cuisine “Konamon”① : When Did Flour-Based Dishes Initially Gain Popularity?
In Osaka, “Konamon” is a beloved everyday cuisine among the common people, but to trace its origins, one must delve into the extensive history of wheat flour.
The habit of consuming wheat flour is believed to have originated around 8000 BCE in Mesopotamia. During that time, wheat was not consumed as flour but was mixed with various grains and legumes, crushed with stones, and then baked for consumption.
Subsequently, the use of a millstone to grind wheat into flour made it more convenient as a culinary ingredient, solidifying its position as a staple food.
In Japan, the cultivation of wheat is believed to have begun around the 3rd century BCE during the Yayoi period. However, wheat was primarily consumed among the upper class, including aristocrats and monks, and wheat cultivation was not widespread, making it an ingredient detached from the daily life of the common people.
The widespread consumption of wheat flour among the common people began in Japan after the Edo period, from 1603 to 1868. During that time, farmers were required to surrender rice as land tax, and as a result, they had limited access to rice for consumption. To compensate for the shortage, they started small-scale wheat production as a substitute food. This practice spread across the country, and with the introduction of stone mills, it is believed to have contributed to the popularity and diffusion of wheat-based noodles such as udon and soba.
The Mystery of Osaka’s Flour-Based Cuisine “Konamon”② :Why did flour-based cuisine evolve in Osaka?
There are various theories regarding the origin of flour-based cuisine in Osaka. In the medieval period around the year 1500, Sen no Rikyū, a merchant from Sakai, which thrived as a “free and autonomous city” serving as a hub for overseas trade, played a significant role in Japan’s economy and cultural center. Sen no Rikyū devised a confection for tea ceremonies called “fugashi,” made by mixing wheat flour with sugar and water and baking it. This “fugashi” is considered to be the precursor to the current okonomiyaki and is also thought to contribute to the origin of flour-based cuisine “Konamon” in Osaka.
Furthermore, there are historical records indicating the emergence of flour-based cuisine in Osaka known as “fu-yaki” during the Genroku era of the Edo period (1688–1704). This “fu-yaki” involved grilling wheat flour on a hot plate and topping it with ingredients such as green onions and octopus, serving as a prototype for the present-day okonomiyaki.
However, the mystery behind the evolution of flour-based dishes like okonomiyaki and takoyaki in Osaka lies in the fact that during the Edo period, Osaka was referred to as the “Kitchen of the Nation.”
Osaka thrived as a pivotal hub for maritime transportation, receiving kombu (kelp) from Hokkaido and katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) from Tosa (present-day Kochi). The combination of these abundant and high-quality ingredients gave rise to “Osaka dashi” (broth), which became the flavor base. The advent of “Osaka dashi” played a pivotal role in elevating flour-based dishes to a dramatic level in the realm of cuisine.
This “Osaka dashi” became the foundation for the rich flour-based cuisine culture we see today, as it seamlessly blended with wheat flour in dishes like Osaka-style udon, okonomiyaki, and takoyaki. The convergence of “Osaka dashi” and wheat flour is believed to have shaped the diverse and flourishing flour-based culinary culture in Osaka.
The Mystery of Osaka’s Flour-Based Cuisine “Konamon”③ : The Many Secrets Surrounding Takoyaki
Representing Osaka’s fast food scene is takoyaki, but its history is surprisingly recent, with the first shops appearing in the post-World War II era in the 1950s.
While there are various claims about its originator, the roots are often traced back to the popular snacks of the Taisho and Showa eras known as “choboyaki” or “radio-yaki.” Choboyaki involved pouring wheat flour mixed with water into half-circle depressions on a copper or iron plate, reminiscent of today’s takoyaki makers. The mixture was then cooked with ingredients like red pickled ginger, konnyaku (yam cake), green onions, and soy sauce.
When choboyaki evolved into takoyaki, it was significantly influenced by a regional dish from Akashi City in Hyogo Prefecture known as “Akashiyaki.” Akashiyaki is a type of tamagoyaki (Japanese rolled omelet) where octopus is mixed with a batter of wheat flour, starch, eggs, and dashi (broth), and then cooked. The resulting balls are dipped in a savory broth before being consumed.
The ingredient mentioned in “Akashiyaki,” called “jin-ko”（沈粉), refers to the sediment or residue produced when wheat flour is dissolved in water, causing gluten to separate. Gluten is a high-quality protein commonly used in the production of baked wheat gluten, among other things. Jin-ko, on the other hand, is a byproduct created when separating gluten from wheat flour. When dried, it becomes “uki-ko” (浮き粉), a type of floating flour, which is utilized as a binding agent in the production of processed foods like kamaboko (fish cake). The inclusion of uki-ko in Akashiyaki contributes to its distinctive and luscious texture.
Osaka’s iconic dish, takoyaki, is said to have been created by Ryoichi Endo, the founder of “Aiduya” in Nishinari Ward, Osaka, drawing inspiration from “Akashiyaki.” The history dates back to around 1935 when Endo incorporated the cooking method of “Akashiyaki” into a dish resembling radio-yaki. He mixed wheat flour, jin-ko (floating flour), eggs, and dashi (broth), added octopus, and began selling this concoction from a street stall, marking the roots of today’s takoyaki. “Aiduya” continues to operate as a longstanding takoyaki establishment.
Knowing the lesser-known history of Osaka’s iconic takoyaki adds a unique flavor to the enjoyment of the diverse flour-based cuisine culture ”Konamon” in Osaka.
